Write Short Notes on Cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products having a bioactive ingredient intended to improve the health and appearance of skin or hair. Any cosmetic product that contains a bioactive ingredient such as vitamins, antioxidants, peptides, extracts from biological sources, etc., is considered a cosmeceutical.

The term “cosmeceutical” is combined from “cosmetics” and “pharmaceuticals.”. The term was coined by Raymon Reed in 1961. However, it was Dr Alber Klingman who popularised this term when he recognised that even a water molecule could alter the structure or function of the skin.

Cosmeceuticals aim to enhance the product efficiency by adding the bioactive ingredient that many of them claim to have medicinal benefits as well. Several topical cosmeceuticals, such as lotions, creams, and serums, are even scientifically validated. It proves that cosmeceuticals could influence the biological functions of both skin and hair.

Classification of Cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals could be classified into three groups.

Skin cosmeceuticals
Hair cosmeceuticals
Other cosmeceuticals

Skin Cosmeceuticals

Skincare cosmeceuticals are those products that enhance the texture, appearance or functioning of the skin. They include,

Non-bleaching agents such as sunscreen lotions, retinoids, etc. Sunscreen agents can be physical that form a layer over the skin and block or reflect sunrays, or chemical agents that absorb UV rays.
Skin oils that help hydrate the skin an prevent fine lines are also examples of skin cosmecuticals.
Vitamin C and Vitamin E, serine protease from soybean, extract from Pinus pinaster bark etc are known to reduce skin pigmentation.
Skincare products with antioxidants are another example that help prevent photodamage of the skin or the skin damage caused by exposure to the sun.
Green tea extract in skincare products is in demand. Green tea contains epigallocatechin 3-gallate, which can stimulate skin repair and prevent skin damage due to UV rays, is another example. They can act as anti-inflammatory agents, promote collagen formation, binds elastic fibers to protect skin elasticity. Other examples of antioxidants are taken from turmeric extract, rosemary extract, and extract from Boswellia serrata.
Peptides that are common in skincare products in recent times are another cosmeceutical agent. The particular peptide sequence could promote wound healing, promote collagen synthesis, and also form skin fibers.
Cosmeceuticals with growth hormones promote the growth of collagen and promote anti-ageing. They help thicken the epidermis and smooth out wrinkled skin.
Hormonal creams are another example of anti-ageing cosmeceuticals that can even out the skin tone and maintain skin elasticity. These products likely contain hormones such as progesterone for topical application. They are mainly used in skin conditions such as keratosis, rosacea, psoriasis, and acne, etc. Most of them require a medical prescription.
Common exfoliating creams with salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or lactic acid are cosmeceuticals. They intend to remove dead skin cells without causing skin irritation.
Those anti-ageing skin creams with retinoids intend to reduce wrinkles, reduce skin damage due to sun exposure, remove hyperpigmentation, and smooth skin texture. They also have bleaching effects by reducing melanin formation.
Skincare products with lipoic acid produce antioxidants to reduce skin damage. Lipoic acid can recycle antioxidants such as vitamin C, glutathione, vitamin E, etc.
Panthenol or vitamin B5 is used in lotions, creams, and hair products. Pantothenic acid is converted into pantothenic acid in the skin, which is essential for cell metabolism.
Niacinamide is commonly seen in facial serums, face wash, and creams. It improves skin exfoliation and promotes epidermal growth to repair the skin.
Allatonin promotes new tissue growth and is commonly seen in acne-related skincare products.

Hair Cosmeceuticals

Hair care cosmeceuticals are products that are used to improve hair texture, colour, and general health and that are applied topically on the hair or scalp. These products usually contain

Conditioning agents
Hair growth stimulants
Antifungal agents to remove dandruff
A topical hair growth stimulant such as minoxidil

Other Cosmeceuticals

Topical creams and serums for undereye pigmentation are an example of other cosmeceuticals. They are meant to heal and repair the delicate skin under the eyes. They also nourish and hydrate the skin and keep the skin around this area free of lines and wrinkles.

The bioactive ingredient in such products usually comes from Gingko biloba, cucumber, chamomile, calendula, carrot, wheatgerm oil, corn oil, seaweed extract, etc.

Regulation of Cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals are not yet a legal class, thus are not subject to the FDA review or come under the law, yet. However, some countries have certain laws, classes, or categories that control these products. It should be noted that cosmeceuticals may not come under the drugs category, it still come under the cosmetics category, and these products need to comply with those regulations.

As cosmeceuticals include a wide range of products that could lead to dermal problems in one way or the other, proper cosmetovigilance is the need of the hour.

Conclusion

Although they are intended for topical application, they get absorbed into the skin and become a part of the internal issues as well. They require proper clinical trials, and the consumers need a wider awareness about these products.

References

Kushwaha, V., Agrawal, P., Das, A., Gupta, P. K., Goel, S., & Department of Pharmacology, G.S.V.M Medical College, Kanpur, India. (2025). Cosmeceuticals. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences Review and Research, 42–46. https://globalresearchonline.net/ijpsrr/v85-4/07.pdf